Copenhagen – a city where you are never far from a bun, a bicycle or a bridge
Day 1 - Lunch / Hotel check in / Culture - Wonderful, wonderful Copenhagen was the tune playing in my head as I took the 15 minute train from the airport to Copenhagen Central Train station then straight onto the 7A bus to Frederiksberg, home to the highly rated Hansens Gamle Familiehave, a cosy family restaurant complete with checked table cloths and mature waiters, recommended for its traditional Danish fare. A confetti of paperwork arrives with a choice of hot food from the main menu or a long list of Smorgasbord. Hotel check in next at the Villa Copenhagen, newly renovated and opposite the Central Train station, Tivoli gardens and a five minute walk to Stroget, one of the longest shopping streets in Europe. The hotel also has the only outdoor heated 25 metre pool in Copenhagen, perfect for a morning dip all year round.
Late afternoon, the Metro line with a standard cost of 24 kk (£3) per journey up to Kongens Nytorv ‘The Kings New Square’. This is the popular public square at the end of Stroget, home to the posh 5 star Hotel D’Angletterre and one of the many Christmas markets scattered all over the city serving mainly hot dogs, Glogg & hot chocolate. Evening at The Old Stage Theatre, situated in Kongens Nytorv to see the Nutcracker suite accompanied by the Royal Danish Orchestra, considered one of the worlds oldest orchestras.
Day 2 – Sightseeing / Shopping – Morning, time to start ticklisting those photo opps with the Hans Christian Andersen statue in City Hall Square, opposite Tivoli Gardens. The Danes love a bronze statue and this was created by Henry Luckow-Nielsen and erected in 1965. Across the square, and just into Stroget, for a Pistachio Croissant at Buka cafe, so utterly divine I went back again the next day. The filling is a light and delectable mix of pistachio, heavy cream and white chocolate.
Heading from Buka, upto the boho/secondhand shopping street Larsbjørnstræde which has a feel of Notting Hill before it became expensive, lots of second shops and vegetarian style cafes.
It’s easy then to keep walking from Larsbjørnstræde to Rosenberg Castle, built by one of the most famous Danish Kings, Christian IV, in the 17th century. The beautiful castle features 400 years of royal treasures, the Crown Jewels and Royal Regalia. At 11.30am you can follow hot on the heels of the Danish Royal Guard as they march from Rosenborg across to Amalienborg palace for the changing of the guard ceremony that takes place every day at 12pm. If the flag is up at the Queen’s palace, you will experience the marching band as well.
From Amelienborg castle, it’s an easy flat 15 minute coastal walk up to see the Little Mermaid, bronze statue again, that was unveiled on 23 August 1913, a gift from Danish brewer Carl Jacobsen to the City of Copenhagen. Head along the coast from the Little Mermaid back to Nyhavn, the iconic strip of multi-coloured houses, originally a commercial port and full of restaurants, bars and in winter, lined with Christmas markets as well.
Nyhavn is also where you can pick up one of the Canal boat tours, that go for 60 or 90min trips round the waterfront and canals, a great way to get a feel for the geography of the city and learn about the history as well.
As the light fades, it’s the perfect time to head over to Tivoli Gardens, Copenhagens city central theme park that was said to inspire Hans Christian Andersen and Walt Disney. I think it’s best seen at night when it’s wall to wall fairy lights and twinkliness, plus for the thrill seekers some pretty scary rides.
Day 3 – Culture / Shopping – Start your last day with a visit to the Niels Bohr Institute to hear about the fascinating life of Danish physicist Niels Hernirk David Bohr, as told by resident archivist Robert Sunderland. He tells the life and loves of this Danish genius who made foundational contributions about the atomic structure and quantum theory, and received the Nobel Prize in Physics in 1922. Before the flight home, a visit to the district of Norrebro, Copenhagens culturally diverse neighbourhood and the location of Hans Christian Anderson and Niels Bohr’s gravestones in Assistens Cemetary. Just over the road from the cemetery, take a walk down Jægersborggade a wide cobbled street with some cool looking coffee shops, restaurants and arty shops.
Nørrebrogade is the main thoroughfare not far from Jægersborggade, and a good bet to try some of the best schwarma in the city. We headed back to Central Station along Blågårdsgade, a narrow street off Norrebrogade, full of cafes, bars and second hand shops. In summer this is a great place to sit outside with a drink.
TRAVEL TIP: With a Copenhagen Card in hand you get free admission to Tivoli and over 80 attractions as well as free public transportation in the whole capital region.
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